Monday, 25 July 2016

ONE SUNNY MONDAY AT HOME

Last Monday morning small waves rolled in as the heatwave began to take effect. I had no work on that morning so I took full advantage of the dropping swell and sunshine. I chucked my Boy Leg C-Skins Solace wetsuit in the car with a couple of surfboards - perfect for small waves and headed to a favourite spot of mine.

As I pulled up I could see fun 2ft sets rolling in, so I waxed up my Fourth Surfboards BurgerFish, strapped my GoPro Session to my had and hit the surf. I caught I couple of waves but it was clear that the swell was dying and I needed to make the most of the waves before then completely dropped off.

I wasn't ready to get out so I swapped my surfboards and took in my 6'6 TimePiece Single fin which is by far one the funnest surfboards I have ever ridden. I cruised along the rights and lefts just enjoying the feeling of the board under my feet.

This was such a magical morning. I remember looking around at the turquoise water having to pinch myself that this is my home. In that moment I felt so blessed to be here.

I hope you enjoy my little edit and it inspires you to grab a board and go surfing.




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