Tuesday, 18 June 2019

Making Surfing Fun

Since becoming a mum, I struggle to surf as much as I did pre-baby. No longer can surf every time the waves arrive, nor can I surf for hours and hours upon end. I am sure that one day I will, but Albee is so young still, and when you're a working mum, it's not always as easy as chasing the swell. 

At the start of my surfing journey postpartum, I really struggled to keep my surf stoke and struggled not to hold on to negative thoughts when it came to missing the surf because of mum duties. As soon as I accepted that my life had changed, and so would my surf time, I was quickly able to let go of any stresses and pressure I had put on myself and truly enjoy the time that I did and do have in the water ... all be it few and far between. 

I wanted to share these thoughts with you because I know how hard we can be on ourselves. As surfers, as mothers, as human beings. We put so much pressure on ourselves to perform to our best abilities all the time. To be doing the things we love all the time. When in reality, sometimes, that's just not possible. Maybe your childcare fell through, you're a single parent and have very little time to yourself, or you have to work late. Whatever the reasoning, life can simply get in the way of your surf time, and that is ok. 

It's unrealistic to expect to be able to do what you love all the time, and it's also an unnecessary pressure to put on yourself. I used to always feel like I had to be doing remarkable things all the time, and had to be seen to be travelling, surfing, shooting - "living my best life". When in reality, when I was, in fact, doing all of those things I took them for granted. I didn't live in the moment, appreciate the moment. I always felt like I was chasing the next thing. 

Now I don't travel as much as I did, my shoots are more sporadic, but I couldn't be happier. I appreciate the times that I am in the water, in front of a camera and find joy in planning mini staycations and daydreaming about trips away after the summer.

Maybe I have been rambling on a little too much and gone off on a tangent, but I just wanted to express how my life becoming a little more "ordinary" and a little less "instagramable" has, in fact, made my life fuller and made me a lot happier. 

I now surf less than I ever have before, but I am making surfing fun again. I enjoy the feeling of being in the water, sat on my board, not worrying about a thing. If you don't already, I urge you to try and do the same. Remove that pressure and make surfing fun! 

Photos by Ben Battell // Wetsuits by C-Skins // Surfboard by Fourth Surfboards

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